外文翻譯---流行趨勢預測

1、<p><b>　　附錄(外文文獻)</b></p><p><b>　　原文 </b></p><p>　　Trend prediction</p><p>　　Trend prediction information is much broader than ‘fashion prediction’ in t

2、hat it may not be specifically related to fashion. Trends are recorded and trend predictors (looking for patterns of human behaviour, indicating changing markets or new consumer needs) constantly monitor the media and so

3、ciety.</p><p>　　Many industries use trend prediction to forecast relevant changes and plan product development, for example the interest in all things spiritual was forecast by Faith Popcorn, initially in th

4、e ‘Popcorn Report’ and was developed and continued in ‘Clicking’.</p><p>　　Spirituality is seen in the interest of such things as ‘Feng Shui’ which is a popular approach to interior design. Bookstores now ha

5、ve shelves dedicated to spirituality, as individuals look inwards to discover themselves in a fast-moving world.</p><p>　　The fashion prediction consultancy relies on experts in a variety of fields for its s

6、tructure. They have personnel all over the world to help in gathering intelligence.</p><p>　　The full-time staffing of a consultancy generally consists of the editor who creates the company philosophy. The p

7、ublisher, on the technical side, puts the information together. The retailing and merchandising professionals and fashion directors work on consultancy for individual clients, by applying the general fashion trends more

8、specifically to their needs. They must be skilled in, and aware of, a variety of markets. This could, for example, involve developing exclusive collection strategies,</p><p>　　The objective is to work closel

9、y with the client to determine their concerns, goals and potential customers with a view to tailor-making a design solution.</p><p>　　The success of prediction companies relies on pinpointing trends and deve

10、loping these for individual markets at the right time! Trends may be affected by social, cultural, political and economic moods, as well as evolutions in lifestyle, technological developments, media and retailing. This i

11、nformation is tapped and recorded by international correspondents who provide up-to-date intelligence from fashion capitals, such as London, Paris, Milan, New York, Florence and Tokyo.</p><p>　　The design te

12、am determines how this intelligence affects fashion and consumer awareness.</p><p>　　Designers/Illustrators are employed with design skills in menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, and illustration skills

13、in interpreting and developing silhouette themes, knit and woven samples, print stories and accessories. They visualise new ideas developed from the trend information and consider carefully figure proportions and styliza

14、tion so that any personnel, using the service, can understand what is suggested by the visual.</p><p>　　International agents promote and sell the service to clients worldwide, for example in Los Angeles, Tok

15、yo, London and Paris.</p><p><b>　　Colour</b></p><p>　　Colour is the first consideration of season and is produced for autumn/winter and spring/summer ranges.</p><p>　　Th

16、e colour is put into dye 18 months ahead of the specified season (some clients may require this information up to 2 years earlier, but this may not be shown in the final presentation box).</p><p>　　Fibre and

17、 fabric manufacturers require advanced information regarding colour as they have to develop their product early enough for designers and garment manufacturers to buy it and in turn develop their product. Presentation pac

18、ks are usually presented with a fixed range of colour and a removable range so that clients can develop their own colour combinations. Colour packages are included in the subscription price and may be sold separately to

19、clients who only require colour information and not</p><p>　　The follows the setting of the mood for a new season by developing fabric and silhouette themes. Prediction consultancies produce a variety of mat

20、erials and publications for their clients.</p><p>　　Directional themes and full-figure silhouette illustrations of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear together with accessories are shown. Included in the

21、publication may be exclusive handlooms for wovens, knits and prints produced by freelance and in-house designers.</p><p>　　Commercial fabrics may be published at this time, derived from fabric fairs such as,

22、 Premiere Vision, Interstoff and Prato. These are created from hand cut and stuck swatches of directional fabrics relating to the season’s previously predicted themes.</p><p>　　The fashion prediction design

23、process</p><p>　　One publication is worked in at a time (there may be 12-one a month, or more, depending upon the size of the consultancy and its breadth of expertise).</p><p>　　A company that d

24、evelops its own thematic material will hold a succession of meetings with the core team resulting in decisions being made regarding the amount and content of the themes for a particular season, including evocative names.

25、 This is achieved by discussion. Each individual states what they fell will be a strong trend in the coming season. Where one idea is repeated by several members it is incorporated into the plan for the book. Where simil

26、ar ideas are mentioned they are amalgamated </p><p>　　A colour palette is decided upon. The colours are divided into groups corresponding with the themes. Some colours unavoidably overlap, but as main and ac

27、cent colours alter the overall impression, each theme is sufficiently different.</p><p>　　The designers then start designing. The walls are covered with tear sheets from magazines, separated into appropriate

28、 themes as inspiration. Photographs from the trade fairs are used for guidance on design details.</p><p>　　Fabrics are then discussed in conjunction with the designers designing the garments. It is important

29、 to consider the balance of outerwear and separates fabrics. When decided, lengths of fabric and any interesting accessories are ordered to provide swatches for the books.</p><p>　　After the designs are comp

30、leted they are illustrated with reference to particular markets and ‘lifestyles’ and to capture the ‘essence of the themes’. Technical drawings are also produced, either by the design team or by freelance illustrators.&l

31、t;/p><p>　　Samples of knitwear and new textiles may be commissioned which will be photographed for the books.</p><p>　　Mood boards, containing visuals, fabric and trim, depicting the themes, are co

32、mpleted. The mood boards are sent away to be photographed and return as transparencies.</p><p>　　During the process of compilation, agents worldwide will have seen securing old and new clients, to whom the b

33、ooks will be sent on completion. a master copy of the book is compiled and sent to the printers to have a sample copy printed and bound. The copy is checked for any mistakes before the book goes into production.</p>

34、;<p>　　Travel is an important aspect of fashion research and visiting trade fairs allows reports to be compiled which observe not only trends apparent from the exhibitors’ displays, but also from the people (who a

35、re mainly from the fashion industry) as they walk around the shows. This exercise helps to understand the differences in international fashion, which is important when catering for foreign clients. </p><p>　

36、　Theme development</p><p>　　Fashion prediction for a new season is usually promoted as a series of ‘themes’. These are designed to inspire and direct the designer for a number of markets. Themes, often, are

37、given names to evoke feelings and moods and reflect the content of the theme. Each theme may appeal to one or more markets and requires interpretation from the designer to develop for their particular market. Often the p

38、rediction company offers some consultation to the designer which is helpful in this development. </p><p>　　Markets are usually defined by cost of the merchandise. Nowadays the markets referred to have vague

39、names such as boutique, fashion aware, better end, pm dressing. This is more reflective of changes in ‘lifestyle’.</p><p>　　These can be interpreted into customers buying from:</p><p>　　Lower ma

40、rket – budget; lower middle – high street, chain stores; middle – independent labels and department stores; upper middle – designer diffusion; upper – designer.</p><p>　　Fashion prediction themes have often

41、been very literal in their nature: nautical would show striped sweaters and sailor hats; utility always involve dungarees of some description and multiple pockets. A chic, tailored look may well involve a French beret.&l

42、t;/p><p>　　It is important that visual codes are identifiable and mean similar things to different people. The illustration must work hard to convey a mood, an attitude, in the pose, that convinces the viewer a

43、bout the sort of person that is being targeted.</p><p>　　Similarly, a total look is always helpful because accessories can contribute to not only the communication of the theme, but may also convey the type

44、of person who would wear the ‘look’.</p><p>　　It is important that the proportion is believable and that the information is clear. Themes nowadays are less literal and are more about mixing ideas together to

45、 create something fresher. ‘Lifestyle’ has become important, consequently themes may not be put into an evocative setting which helps to create the correct mood. Less clothing detail is on view but the message allows the

46、 designer to make their own interpretations.</p><p>　　New uses of technology have resulted in the development of the Worth Global Style Network (WGSN) who produce a comprehensive on-line service to fashion i

47、ndustry. Members pay an annual subscription to view the full site; students may visit an educational version free of charge (for a limited period). The services available are: news updates daily; women’s, men’s, youth an

48、d children’s trends; city reports from London, Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo plus seasonal reports from new and trendsetting</p><p><b>　　譯文:</b></p><p><b>　　流行趨勢預測</b>

49、</p><p>　　流行趨勢預測信息所包含的內(nèi)容要比時裝預測豐富得多，原因是其不一定與時裝有關(guān)。流行趨勢是會被記錄下來的。趨勢預測者（尋找人類行為特點，指出變化中的市場或新興的消費需求）會對媒體及社會不斷地進行監(jiān)測。</p><p>　　許多行業(yè)都使用趨勢預測來預測相關(guān)變化并制定產(chǎn)品開發(fā)計劃。例如，費絲?波普康(Faith Popcorn)預測了人們對所有精神事物的興趣。最初是在《爆米花

50、報告》（‘Popcorn report’ )中進行的預測，后來又進行了擴展并繼續(xù)在《新爆米花報告》(‘Clicking’)中進行預測。</p><p>　　人們認為精神性是符合諸如‘風水’此類東西的利益的?！L水’是室內(nèi)設(shè)計普遍采用的方法。當今的書店都設(shè)立了論述精神性書籍的書架，主要是由于現(xiàn)代世界變化迅猛，人們都希望進行內(nèi)省從而來發(fā)現(xiàn)自我。</p><p>　　從事流行款式預測的咨詢公司只

51、有依靠各領(lǐng)域的專家才能形成自己的體系。它們在世界各地均雇用人員來收集情報。</p><p>　　咨詢公司的專職人員一般包括編輯（制定公司的宗旨），出版人（從技術(shù)的角度將信息匯總），零售與推銷專業(yè)人員及時裝經(jīng)理（為個人客戶提供咨詢，將時裝的總體趨勢更具體地用來滿足他們的需要）。這些人員必須具備必要的技能并了解各種市場。例如，這些技能可能包括開發(fā)獨特的收集戰(zhàn)略；紡紗機，織布機，紡織印花機，男人，婦女及兒童服裝的概念與

52、設(shè)計；鞋子與附件的生產(chǎn)商，以及零售商的自有品牌。還有可能需要他們向新客戶銷售訂閱雜志。</p><p>　　其目標是與客戶一起緊密合作，確定他們都關(guān)心些什么，他們的目標是什么及確定潛在客戶，以便制定個性化設(shè)計方案。</p><p>　　預測公司的成功取決于準確確定趨勢并及時為個性化市場開發(fā)這些趨勢。趨勢受社會，文化，政治及經(jīng)濟氣氛以及生活方式的變化，技術(shù)發(fā)展，媒體與零售的影響。本信息是由國

53、際記者開發(fā)并記錄的。他們從時裝之都，如倫敦，巴黎，米蘭，紐約，佛羅倫薩及東京，提供最新的情報。</p><p>　　設(shè)計小組確定該情報會如何影響時裝及消費者們的意識。</p><p>　　雇用了具有男女與兒童服飾設(shè)計技能及說明并開發(fā)廓形主題，針織與機織樣品，印花織物的詳情與附件說明技能的設(shè)計人員/說明人員。他們將從趨勢信息開發(fā)而來的新思維形象化并仔細考慮體形的比例及風格，以便使用服務(wù)的任何

54、人員都能清楚視覺資料的含義。</p><p>　　國際代理向世界各地，如洛杉磯，東京，倫敦及巴黎，的客戶推銷并銷售服務(wù)。</p><p><b>　　預測流行色</b></p><p>　　顏色是季節(jié)首要考慮的問題，是根據(jù)秋/冬及春/夏的類別而確定的。</p><p>　　在所說季節(jié)到來之前的18個月用染料染出顏色（有些

55、客戶最多可能要求提前兩年提供該信息，但最終的外觀盒可能沒有給出該信息。）。</p><p>　　纖維及織物生產(chǎn)商要求提供顏色的超前信息，因為他們要提早開發(fā)出產(chǎn)品供設(shè)計人員及服裝生產(chǎn)商進行購買并轉(zhuǎn)而開發(fā)他們的產(chǎn)品。外觀盒的顏色通常是固定并可除去的，這樣客戶可開發(fā)自己的顏色。訂購價格中包括了彩色包裝。只需要顏色信息而不需要其他服務(wù)的客戶也可單獨購買彩色包裝。</p><p>　　他們通過開發(fā)織

56、物及廓型主題來確定新季節(jié)的色調(diào)。預測咨詢公司為客戶提供各種材料及雜志。</p><p>　　它們給出指導性主題及包括附件在內(nèi)的男女，兒童服飾的完整廓型圖。雜志可能包括由從事自由職業(yè)的設(shè)計師及內(nèi)部設(shè)計師設(shè)計的獨特的手織機織物，針織物及印花織物。</p><p>　　此時可能會發(fā)表來自織物博覽會，如Premiere Vision, Interstoff與Prato，的商業(yè)織物，系與提前預測季節(jié)

57、主題有關(guān)的指導性織物的手工裁剪及粘貼樣布。</p><p><b>　　流行預測設(shè)計過程</b></p><p>　　每次安排一期雜志（每月可能會安排12期或更多。這取決于咨詢公司的規(guī)模及專業(yè)能力）。</p><p>　　開發(fā)自有主題材料的公司會與核心團隊召開一系列的會議來決定某一季節(jié)主題的數(shù)量及內(nèi)容，包括令人懷舊的名稱。他們是通過討論的方式做

58、出決定的。每位與會者均應各抒己見，說出他們認為的下一季節(jié)的主流趨勢。如若數(shù)位與會者均由同一想法，則該想法會被包括在雜志的計劃中。如想法相似，則將這些想法融合在一起，得出主流及大家認同的趨勢。</p><p>　　然后確定調(diào)色板。根據(jù)主題將顏色分成不同的小組。有些顏色會重復，這是不可避免的。但由于主要及重點顏色會改變總體印象，每個主題均是足夠不同的。 </p><p>　　然后設(shè)計者們開始

59、進行設(shè)計。他們將從雜志上撕下的圖片貼在墻上并將圖片按相關(guān)主題分類以獲得靈感。他們還用從行業(yè)博覽會獲得的照片來指導設(shè)計細節(jié)。</p><p>　　然后與設(shè)計服裝的設(shè)計者討論織物問題。重要的是要考慮外衣與單件衣著織物之間的平衡。決定后就訂購織物及任何感興趣的附件為雜志提供樣布。</p><p>　　設(shè)計完成后將根據(jù)某個市場及‘生活方式’的要求進行說明，來抓住‘主題的精髓’。設(shè)計小組或從事自由職

60、業(yè)的說明人員還會完成技術(shù)圖紙。</p><p>　　可能會委托制作針織物及新紡織品的樣品，并為其拍照供雜志出版。</p><p>　　然后做出用來說明主題，含有視覺資料，織物及飾物的色調(diào)板。將色調(diào)板送走拍照，并以幻燈片的形式送還。</p><p>　　在雜志的編輯過程中，位于世界各地的代理們會看到牢靠的新老客戶們，以便于在雜志編輯完成后將雜志寄送給他們。編輯一本原始

61、資料版，將其送到印刷公司印刷并裝訂一本樣品雜志。雜志在批量生產(chǎn)前前要對其內(nèi)容進行校對，找出錯誤之處。</p><p>　　旅行是時裝研究的重點之一。參加行業(yè)博覽會即可從參展者的展品又可從參觀者（主要來自時裝行業(yè)）那里觀察出顯而易見的趨勢，從而編寫出報道。這樣我們可清楚國際時裝的不同之處。這在招攬國外客戶時是十分重要的。</p><p><b>　　主題開發(fā)</b>&l

62、t;/p><p>　　新季節(jié)的時裝預測通常是以一系列的‘主題’進行推銷的。設(shè)計這些主題的主要目的是就幾個市場給設(shè)計者提供靈感及指導。主題名稱設(shè)置通常是能夠激發(fā)感情及心境的，并能反映主題內(nèi)容。每個主題會對一個或多個市場有吸引力，并要求設(shè)計者就開發(fā)某個特定市場進行說明。預測公司通常向設(shè)計者提供某些咨詢幫助他們進行開發(fā)。</p><p>　　市場通常受商品成本的限制。當今所說市場的名稱通常都很模糊，

63、如boutique，fashion aware，better end及pm dressing。這更多地表明了‘生活方式’的變化。</p><p>　　這些可被解釋成客戶從以下市場購買：</p><p>　　低端市場 – 經(jīng)濟型；中低端市場 – 商業(yè)街及連鎖店；中端市場 – 獨立品牌及百貨商場；中高端市場 – 設(shè)計者傳播；高端市場 – 設(shè)計者。</p><p>　　有

64、關(guān)時裝預測的主題通常是很刻板的。有關(guān)航海的主題通常會展示條紋毛衣及水手帽。有關(guān)公用事業(yè)的主題通常會涉及某種粗藍布工作服及多個口袋。有關(guān)時髦，裁制衣服的主題通常會涉及法國貝雷帽。</p><p>　　重要的是視覺資料的代碼應是可識別的，對不同的人含義相近。說明人員必須努力工作來傳達姿勢所表示的心情及態(tài)度，讓觀看者確信被觀者到底屬于哪類人。</p><p>　　類似地，全套裝束也總是有幫助的。

65、因為附件不僅有助于傳達主題，而且還可幫助說明該‘全套裝束’者屬于哪類人。</p><p>　　重要的是比例要令人信服，信息要明了。當今的主題已變得不那么刻板了，更看重的是把各種想法融合在一起來創(chuàng)造出更新穎的東西。‘生活方式’變得更重要了，所以主題就不一定還是耳熟能詳，可幫助獲得正確心情的了。展出的服裝細節(jié)更少了，但寓意著設(shè)計者可自己進行說明。</p><p>　　技術(shù)的新用途導致了沃思全球

66、時裝網(wǎng)(WGSN) 的開發(fā)，從而給時裝業(yè)提供了綜合在線服務(wù)。成員在支付訂閱年費后可瀏覽整個網(wǎng)站。學生可訪問其教育版本一段時間，其費用是免費的。提供的服務(wù)有：每日最新新聞；婦女，男人及青年兒童的流行款式；來自倫敦，巴黎，米蘭，紐約及東京的城市報道，外加來自新興及新潮地區(qū)的季節(jié)報道；國際貿(mào)易博覽會日歷及生活方式報道 - 消費者的態(tài)度，演變中的購買特點，季節(jié)劃分；模特表演及行業(yè)大事報道；圖形庫；資源列表；許可報道 – 品牌，電影，運動項目，郵